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Electric construction of Ronja

Overall schematic

Overall schematic discusses how to interconnect the various Ronja Loopipe modules together to get a functional full duplex end of the optical route. There are several models of Ronja, differing in used modules. You select the modules for example according to the PC interface you wish (RS232 or IrDA SIR). You may place different versions on each end of the optical line. All version share common optical protocol.

The Ronja Loopipe modules are the following (with short characterization):

• HSDL1001 frontend. Serves as preamplifier and amplifier together. Needs the HSDL1001 part. Features different optical interface (6mm omidirectional detection bulb) than the generic preamplifier. I don't know if this impairs the optical performance.
• Preamplifier. Contains two common discrete transistors and photodetector SFH203F which is very suitable for use with cheap massive glass optics.
• Amplifier, MAC 160 version. Uses MAC160 (Eastern European fast comparator) instead of LM319. Is functionally equivalent to the Amplifier, LM319 version.
• Amplifier, LM319 version. Uses the LM319 part.
• Driver. Drives the power LED.
• IrDA SIR PC interface. Recommended if your motherboard features IrDA pinhead. It is necessary to set up the BIOS's polarity setting to "RX=high, TX=high". If your BIOS doesn't allow this then you have to use the
• IrDA SIR PC interface DeLuxe which contains two switches to accomodate the BIOS setting. But care must be taken not to destroy the transmitter.
• RS 232 interface. Use recommended only if motherboard doesn't feature IrDA connector. Is more complicated than IrDA interface. Fits into RS232 port on the rear of your PC.
• 12V 250mA power source - usually a wall cube (DC adaptor). Is not a part of the Ronja design, although is required for operation of the device.

The indivindual versions that you may build are the following:

• IrDA generic version: PNG, gschem schematic.
• RS232 generic version: PNG, gschem schematic.
• IrDA HSDL1001 version: PNG, gschem schematic.
• RS232 HSDL1001 version: PNG, gschem schematic. This version was selected by Pavouk for his piece.

The individual modules

Preamplifier

PNG and gschem schematic.

Here you have the part list:

BF907 pinout.

Amplifier, MAC 160 version

PNG and gschem schematic.

Here you have the part list:

Use R24 to set up NE592's gain so that the AC voltmeter shows about 100mV when sending a repeating pattern consisting of 70 consecutive chars "space" and 70 consecutive chars "lowercase o". Then possibly adjust R7 if data are corrupted (and the corruption is not caused by weak signal).

Amplifier, LM319 version

PNG and gschem schematic.

Here you have the part list:

Use R24 to set up NE592's gain so that the AC voltmeter shows about 100mV when sending a repeating pattern consisting of 70 consecutive chars "space" and 70 consecutive chars "lowercase o". Then possibly adjust R7 if data are corrupted (and the corruption is not caused by weak signal).

Driver

Driver is the piece driving the power LED: PNG and gschem schematic.

Here you have the part list:

IrDA interface

This interface connects to any IrDA pinhead on a motherboard. PNG and gschem schematic.

Here you have the part list:

IrDA interface DeLuxe

PNG and gschem schematic.

Part list

RS-232 Interface

This connects to RS-232 (serial, asynchronous) port of your PC. The connector is specified for 9-pin Canon, but you can easily adapt it for 25-pin RS-232 Canon connector.

PNG, gschem schematic, obsolete PNG.

Here you have the part list:

Attention. It is possible the crystal (1.8432 MHz) oscillator will have problems starting up. Use Pavouk's version instead in such case! However there has been a report Pavouk's oscillator had also problems starting up. Check if oscillator works when you try to debug the running device. How to check for running XTAL oscillator? Shine with a TV remote control and the RX led should blink. If the led stays in the same state (shining or dark), the oscillator is either bad or the amplifier or preamplifier or front end is not working properly. Sometimes I'll try to kick the sucking HSDL7000 and XTAL off and replace it with a pulse stretcher (monostable multivibrator).

The new version (drawn in gschem) contains capacitor that prevents DC overload of the transmitter in case of crystal clock failure.

If you have a 1.8432MHz ready oscillator in a small tin box, you can throw out the 3-gate oscillator on the schematics and use the ready-made. You can take the 5V from game connector of keyboard connector of your PC if you want. But do not short-circuit the 5V inside your PC when PC is running. The power consumption is small. You can use several equivalents of MAX232, the capacitor values can be adjusted for them. You must setup your port for 115200bps. The parity, data and stop bit setting is not important, but I recommend using 8bits, 1 stop bit, no parity.

The 1.8432 MHz doesn't need to be synchronous with that inside your PC. It works according to the HSDL7000 specs. If you can lead out the 16XCLK from your RS232 UART, you need no clocking circuit and simply use it instead of the oscillator.

Pavouk's version of Loopipe

It's a RS 232 HSDL1001 version.

• Overall schematic of Pavouk's version of Loopipe. Differs from the above schematics in HSDL1001 frontend, different XTAL oscillator. The end contains 7 LED's and thus also the switching transistor is a power type. Caution, the power transistor heats, cooling may be necessary. And finally, the RS232 interface is powered from RS232 pins. Pavouk says that it works with his PC, his notebook and his Amiga.
• PCL file (for Hewlett-Packard printers) with the PCB image.
• PNG picture of the PCB. There are 5 pieces of board in one picture, separated by visible lines, and each labelled except the lower left which is not for components. The PNG is at 300 dpi (300 pixels per inch). If you print it at other resolution you won't be able to fit the ICs' pins into the holes.
• Components placement info

There are seven infrared transmitter LED's on the LED board (HSDL4220 type). This is good for testing without optics, but for mounting into lens tube, you will need only one. Simply remove six of them together with their resistors (20 ohm).